Skip to content


Gates like these dot the countryside in the Valle d'itria. They remind me that doors everywhere are just waiting to be opened.

Gates like these dot the countryside in the Valle d’itria. They remind me that doors everywhere are just waiting to be opened.

A little more than six months have passed since we changed everything about our lives. It’s easy to identify the radical differences—we aren’t working for other people or institutions, we don’t drive everywhere, we’re speaking another language—but the subtle, under-the-radar changes are the ones that sneak up behind us and let us know that this nuova storia isn’t business as usual. And it’s the small things, the unexpected surprises, which have truly changed us.

Evening commute over the Willamette—a regular occurence while living in Portland, Oregon.

Evening commute over the Willamette River—a regular occurrence while living in Portland, Oregon.

In our former lives, we would have been up at 6:00 a.m. and out the door at 7:00 a.m., rushing to make the first meeting of the day. For me, the rest of the morning would unfold predictably, a series of one-on-one meetings with staff coupled with visits with donors, faculty and other colleagues. Unpredictable occurrences were typically unpleasant surprises that required damage control, but only after endless, often fruitless consultation. During the winter, we left for work in the dark and returned home in the dark, usually accompanied by rain. After a few short hours together, we’d go to bed and do it all over again.

Cosimo on his farm harvesting sponsali for us.

Cosimo on his farm harvesting sponsali for us.

In contrast, consider yesterday’s agenda. The night before, we’d gotten a call from a friend who planned to accompany her father-in-law to a farm in a town down the road from us. She thought we might like to see the farm and meet the farmer, perhaps taste some of his organic extra virgin olive oil. So at 9:00 a.m., we found ourselves rocketing down the road in a Fiat Punto, ending up on a muddy track in the middle of a field of the most exquisite cauliflower, broccoli, chard and onions you’ve ever seen.

Headed back to Martina Franca, we make room for the vegetable bounty we harvested.

Headed back to Martina Franca, we make room for the vegetable bounty we harvested.

We met the farmer, Cosimo, who invited us to pick as much of the bounty as we wanted. Sinking up to our ankles in the deep red clay, we filled the car, balancing wooden crates on our laps, giddy from the intense aroma of the onions and the sweet, earthy tang of the broccoli. As quickly as we arrived, we headed back to Martina Franca, staggering from the weight of farmer Cosimo’s generosity. It was a morning filled with surprise, laughter and kindness. And we were back in Martina Franca in time for a mid-morning espresso.

Our neighbor, Anina, made sure we had fresh orecchiette for the cauliflower, chard and onions we harvested earlier.

Our neighbor, Anina, made sure we had fresh orecchiette for the cauliflower, chard and onions we harvested earlier.

We dropped off some of our bounty with our lovely neighbor, Anina, who regularly brings us local treats from her kitchen or fruits and vegetables from her garden in the country. We were thrilled to be able to offer her something for a change. Not to be outdone, though, Anina tucked a huge bag of orecchiette and trofiette pasta she’d just made into my arms. Lunch that day was a Pugliese classic: orecchiette con cavolfiore or handmade little ear-shaped semolina pasta in a braised cauliflower sauce with chickpeas, sponsali (Pugliese onions), hot peppers, salt-cured black olives, Swiss chard, garlic, parsley and a few sun-dried tomatoes. If you want to try your hand at making your own orecchiette, here are some great visuals to guide you through it.

Our logo . . . we're getting ready to launch.

Our logo . . . we’re getting ready to launch.

The rest of the afternoon was spent finalizing details of our online merchant account for Pascarosa, our extra virgin olive oil export business. We’re shipping our first pallets of extra virgin olive oil to the U.S. in just a few weeks, so we’re swimming in a sea of endless customs regulations, bills of lading, powers of attorney, shopping cart programs and website tweaks. Tedious? Maybe, but we’re the ones making the decisions and we’ll benefit (or suffer) accordingly.

A welcome break arrived in form of Pina, the wife of one Brian’s bicycling friends, who stopped by for an early afternoon coffee with an invitation to join her for one of her rambles one day. Pina thinks nothing of a daily eight-kilometer afternoon walk in the country, but said she’d adjust for me by starting off with just four. Great. So now there’s no excuse to hold back. I can organize myself to accommodate the things that really matter because I get to choose how the day unfolds.

Brian and Catherine on via Alberobello.

Brian and Catherine on via Alberobello.

So we expected that we’d be doing different things in a very different place, and we were reasonably prepared for how it would feel. What we didn’t count on was the impact of a new spontaneity, a kind of lightness that has permeated our bodies and our minds. The things we used to think were important—money, status, career success, appearance—have just drifted away. In their place, we are focused on work that we value, friends that we care about and a life lived fully every day.

What hasn’t changed is how much we miss our children and our family. We’re in close touch, but there’s a physical ache that comes from geographic separation no matter how much we talk. Once we figure out how to integrate our longing for closeness while living a continent away, we’ll know that our nuova storia will have become the vera storia  (real story) of the rest of our lives.

Simmering sauce for Orecchiette con Cavolfiore.

Simmering sauce for Orecchiette con Cavolfiore.

Try this flavorful, comforting pasta on a cool day when you want to reaffirm your connection to earthy, organic vegetables and a healthy way of life. Note that I roasted the cauliflower with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, but you could also braise it with the other ingredients for a more integrated flavor. If you do, add the cauliflower pieces towards the end of the onion braising, before adding the Swiss chard and additional water.

Orecchiette con Cavolfiore—Orecchiette with Cauliflower


1 head cauliflower (you can also use bright green broccoli romanesco if you can find it)

Extra virgin olive oil

Kosher or sea salt

4 or 5 sponsali (long, bulbous onions that look a little like leeks but have a stronger aroma and flavor; you can substitute spring onions, leeks or regular yellow onions)

1 or 2 peperoncini (small, dried red pepper—adjust quantity based on your own tolerance for heat)

1 or 2 cloves garlic

½ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves

1 cup white wine

2 cups cooked chickpeas and their cooking broth or one can cooked chickpeas, rinsed, with 1/3 cup water

7 or 8 sundried tomatoes soaked in extra virgin olive oil

20 small, salt-cured black olives, with or without pits (if you keep the pits in, you’ll be rewarded with extra flavor in the sauce; just make sure everyone knows the pits are still in the olives when you serve the pasta!)

1 small bunch Swiss chard, rinsed, with heavy center ribs removed

1 lb. orecchiette (little ear-shaped semolina pasta that you can make or buy; good brands available in the U.S. are Benedetto Cavalieri, Rustichello d’Abruzzo and the A.G. Ferrari house label)


Preheat over to 400 degrees.

Beautiful Pugliese cauliflower along with bright green romanesco broccoli.

Beautiful Pugliese cauliflower along with bright green romanesco broccoli.

Cut the cauliflower into small flowerettes and place them in a bowl. Pour a judicious amount of extra virgin olive oil over the cauliflower, season with Kosher or sea salt and freshly grated black pepper and mix well with your hands, making sure each flowerette has come in contact with the extra virgin olive oil. Spread the cauliflower on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes or so, checking every so often to make sure the flowerettes are browning evenly. You may need to shake the pan a little. Remove when the cauliflower is golden brown, with crispy little sections at the edges.

In the meantime, fill a large pasta pot three-quarters full of water and bring to the boil.

Pugliese spring onions, also called sponsali, have a pronounced aroma and flavor.

Pugliese spring onions, also called sponsali, have a pronounced aroma and flavor.

Clean the onions and slice into rounds if you’re using sponsali, spring onions or small leeks, or into quarters no larger than half an inch for regular onions. Heat ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet or sauté pan, then add the onions. Saute for a few minutes over medium heat, then reduce the heat and cover to allow the onions to become lightly golden brown and translucent. You may need to add a little white wine from time to time during this process; keep an eye on things and don’t let the onions darken. This process will take about 20 minutes; if you haven’t added all of the white wine during the braising, add it now.

These sponsali are cleaned of field dirt and ready for slicing.

These sponsali are cleaned of field dirt and ready for slicing.

Chop the garlic, peperoncino and Italian parsley, then add to the onions. Cut the sun-dried tomatoes into thin julienne strips and add them to the onion mixture along with the cooked chickpeas and the olives. Stir well and increase the heat. You should have about ¾ cup of liquid in the mixture at this point.

Roasted cauliflower are the final addition to the finished pasta sauce.

Roasted cauliflower are the final addition to the finished pasta sauce.

Slice the reserved Swiss chard into julienne strips and add them to the onion mixture. Sauté the mixture, allowing the liquid to simmer. If necessary, add a little of the boiling pasta water. Slice the Swiss chard leaves crosswise into ribbons, then add it to the skillet mixture. Add Kosher or sea salt along with freshly ground black pepper to taste. Sauté the mixture for about ten minutes, just long enough to cook the Swiss chard.

Add abundant salt to the boiling pasta water (it should taste like the sea), then add the orecchiette. Quickly cover the pot to encourage the water to return to the boil. Remove the lid when the water is boiling again. Dried orecchiette should take somewhere between 12 and 15 minutes; fresh orecchiette take only minutes.

When the orecchiette are cooked al dente (literally, to the teeth; you should be able to bite into one and encounter a slight resistance at the core of the pasta), quickly drain the pasta, being sure to save about a cup of the pasta cooking water.

Add the drained orecchiette to the ingredients in the sauté pan, stirring to incorporate. Add a little of the reserved pasta water to make a creamy sauce that coats each piece of pasta perfectly. Add the roasted cauliflower at the very last minute; stir briefly to incorporate.

Serve with grated parmigiano, cacioricotta or caciocavallo cheese. More authentically (and vegan, too), replace the cheese with fresh bread crumbs sautéed in extra virgin olive oil until golden brown and crunchy.

Serves six as a first course or four as a main course.

5 Comments Post a comment
  1. Your day sounds lovely. I am doing the dark rainy commute in Salem, Oregon and your blog is an inspiration.

    We will be in Puglia next October and I suspect my husband will have a challenge getting me back on the plane to Portland! Thank you for sharing your story.

    February 21, 2013
    • Hi, Laura–Thanks for reading my blog. I really appreciate your feedback. Where will you be in Puglia? Have you been before? I definitely don’t miss the cold, dark Oregon winters, but I do confess that I’m developing significant cravings for Mexican, Thai and really great PNW beers since we’ve been here. Ninkasi, anyone? Let me know if I can help with any Puglia advice . . . it’s probably obvious that I love this place and would love to give you my top tips for your visit.

      February 21, 2013
      • If you ever do start to miss those Oregon winters, you can always come back and visit! There is a Ninkasi brew fest here in Salem next week — 5 beers, 5 paired hors d’oeuvres. Maybe not a great trade for farmer Cosimo’s bounty, but we’d always love to see you.

        February 22, 2013
      • Hi, Steve–That’s pretty tempting. Italy could definitely work on its microbrew culture. Still . . . We think we’ll be back in Oregon in May, then we’ll head down to Santa Cruz for the remainder of our stay. Perhaps a quick beer stop in Salem is in order. I hope you’re well. It’s great to see your news periodically on Facebook and it’s especially great to have seen you in situ. Take care and thanks for reading.

        February 22, 2013
      • We will drive the length of Puglia (after 8 days in Abruzzo) and will stay on the southwestern tip of Salento for a week. We have been twice to the Gargano and then Trani and down to Matera, and many years ago (college) I was in Bari and Brindisi.

        Thanks for your offer of advice – I will likely be in touch closer to the trip. We would love to see your olives! My husband has dual citizenship and we plan to live in Italy (for at least awhile) after I stop working in 2 years.

        It would be fun to meet you when you pass through Salem in May!


        February 24, 2013

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

The $tingy Sailor

DIY trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard

Gracefully Global Blog

Where travel adventures never begin with a trip to the local monument.

Italy....and Me

food. italy. wine. books genealogy. travel. wine. get. the. idea?

photography, expat tales and short stories from a wandering waitress

Married to Italy

Big city Texan girl meets small town Italian boy. Chaos ensues.

Zester Daily

Zester Daily

Nancy Harmon Jenkins

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Not Just Another "Dolce Vita"

A different point of view on travelling, living and loving Italy.

In Puglia and Places

My experiences living in Puglia and other places

Girl in Florence

A Tuscan Texan immersed in Florentine life: passionate about food & wine | random moments | and travel

News : NPR

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Online Casinos

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Eater SF - All

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Eater Portland - All

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Food : NPR

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Chocolate & Zucchini

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Bon Vivant

Life's simple pleasures

Culinate Main Feed

We begin a new life in Italy . . .


A resource and running commentary on stylish London

Puglia Kitchen

sapori, profumi e visioni culinarie made in puglia

Cantine Menhir

News from Salento... where the sun warms the spirit, water refreshes the mind, food whets the palate, land feeds the soul, and the wine... awakens the passion.

What Katie Ate

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

A Cup of Jo

We begin a new life in Italy . . .


We begin a new life in Italy . . .

Elizabeth Minchilli

We begin a new life in Italy . . .

%d bloggers like this: