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Posts tagged ‘Ostuni’

Open Air Museum

Thousand year old olive trees dot the golden landscape on the fertile Ostuni-Fasano plain.

Thousand year old olive trees dot the golden landscape on the fertile Ostuni-Fasano plain.

Years ago, a visiting art historian friend of ours let us know that nothing really important happened artistically in 16th century Puglia during the explosion of cultural creativity known as the Renaissance in present day Tuscany. She’s right, of course, but many of Puglia’s most intriguing artistic achievements predate Florence’s Renaissance achievements. And when Florence and its surrounding countryside entered into a period of significant decline in the 18th century due to poor management on the part of its succession of grand dukes, Puglia’s Baroque period was in full flower. From the cathedrals and churches of Lecce to the noble villas of wealthy Barese merchants, there is still plenty to recommend an architectural tour here. But Puglia shines brightest in the countryside. From more than 450 miles of coastline facing aquamarine seas to fields of gnarled, ancient olive trees twisting against a backdrop of shimmering golden grain, the Pugliese landscape is bewitching. Read more

Bontà

San Marzano tomatoes dry the old-fashioned way in the hot Pugliese sun on cane pallets.

San Marzano tomatoes dry the old-fashioned way on cane pallets in the hot Pugliese sun.

We never cease to be amazed by the sheer quantity of produce that springs forth from Pugliese soil. Perhaps more impressive than the quantity, though, is the quality or bontà. From season to season, Pugliese fruits and vegetables go from strength to strength in a yearlong parade of color, texture and flavor that is a wonder to behold. Yesterday we spent the day at an especially productive organic farm down by the Adriatic coast near Ostuni, returning to Martina Franca with boxes of treasures almost too beautiful to eat. But we ate them anyway. Read more

Fishy Baccalà

Baccalà and panzerotti fritti were on offer at Bar Galante on Friday night.

Baccalà and panzerotti fritti were on offer at Bar Galante on Friday night.

As is so often the case here, we started the day with a fairly well defined plan and finished it in a completely different way. The original program involved the completion of a series of business tasks along with the extra work of getting ready to leave the country, mindfully ticking things off lists. But we went for a rambling bike ride instead, ending up in a funny little bar in the country to wait out a mid-morning rainstorm. While we were out there, we noticed a handwritten sign advertising baccalà and panzerotti fritti on offer that evening, so we made plans to come back later for dinner. Read more

It’s Cold Outside

Ostuni's port, Villanova, is still beautiful in the middle of winter.

Ostuni’s port, Villanova, is just as beautiful in the middle of winter.

On the coldest day since we’ve been in Italy, we went to the beach. No, not to swim, which would be considered certifiably insane at this time of year here. Instead, we wanted to see what the Adriatic Sea looks like up close in winter. We were also looking for a little ambient warmth. Our town is about 1, 500 feet above sea level, so it’s always colder here—a real advantage during the summer. But in the winter, the coast is the place to be for a little relief from the tramontana, the cold north wind that whips through the tiny streets and alleys of our medieval town. Read more

Susumaniello—Whisper When You Say It

Ad alberello or head-pruned grape vines in the Valle d’Itria.

Puglia’s young vintners are breathing new life into the Pugliese wine industry. While Puglia has always produced more wine than any other region in Italy, much of its sun-soaked reds made their way north under cover of night to beef up chianti and nebbiolo-based wines in northern Italy during thin years. Pugliese have also made routine, but clandestine appearances in Bordeaux and Burgundy for the same reason. Now, consistent with so many wonderful aspects of life here, the Pugliese have begun to value their contributions to the viticultural world and are reviving their own historical cantine and ancient vines to worldwide acclaim. Read more

The $tingy Sailor

DIY trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard

Gracefully Global Blog

Where travel adventures never begin with a trip to the local monument.

Italy....and Me

food. italy. wine. books genealogy. travel. wine. get. the. idea?

My Sardinian Life

photography, expat tales and short stories from a wandering waitress

Married to Italy

Big city Texan girl meets small town Italian boy. Chaos ensues.

Zester Daily

Zester Daily

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Not Just Another "Dolce Vita"

A different point of view on travelling, living and loving Italy.

In Puglia and Places

My experiences living in Puglia and other places

Girl in Florence

A Tuscan Texan immersed in Florentine life: passionate about food & wine | random moments | and travel

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Life's simple pleasures

Culinate Main Feed

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stylishmews

A resource and running commentary on stylish London

Puglia Kitchen

sapori, profumi e visioni culinarie made in puglia

Cantine Menhir

News from Salento... where the sun warms the spirit, water refreshes the mind, food whets the palate, land feeds the soul, and the wine... awakens the passion.

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